Matiere Premiere is a new niche fragrance house from France. The brand was launched in 2019 with one intention to share the beauty of natural raw materials directly from the perfumer’s desk. Aurélien Guichard, the Creative Perfumer, and co-Founder of Matiere Premiere composes each fragrance around one raw material of exceptionally fine quality, with a high concentration of Absolue, highlighting its most beautiful faucets with a contemporary olfactive signature.
I was very kindly offered and was gifted a discovery set to be able to test the fragrances from this niche house and here is what I think…
- Neroli Oranger – I am starting with Neroli Oranger because it is the happiest, brightest scent of all! The initial idea behind this fragrance was a work around the purity of orange blossom. The key ingredient used is Absolute Orange Blossom Tunisia. It has orange flower absolute, bergamot, neroli, some ylang-ylang, and fig musk. It is a little sweet and floral but very citrusy and airy. Usually, citrus scents do not last but this one is an exception. Neroli Oranger is an amplified citrus-floral fragrance that projects and lasts! It is very fresh- the most uplifting and mood-booster scent from the collection. It is ideal for spring and summer. My husband likes it on me.
- Parisian Musc – Another gorgeous creation from Matiere Premiere is Parisian Musc which is very clean, with a little green fragrance. It has very clean white musk (think fig). It also has some Cedar and Amber but musk is a standout. It is a sheer and airy fragrance but performs really well. It is elegant and sensual. It leaves a beautiful lingering trail and is ideal for spring. I like this on myself. This can easily be a blind buy or a perfect gift if you’re unsure of the recipient’s taste.
- Cologne Cedrat – With Cologne Cedrat, the initial idea was to create a trail of citrus. This is a powerhouse of citrus with a bit of spice. It has Bergamot, Pink Pepper, Black Pepper, and Mate Absolute. This citrus lasts all day long. It is nice but not my favorite.
- Santal Austral – I am from Indian Origin and there are a few notes like Sandalwood that have always been so comforting to me. I have been smelling sandalwood since childhood and it is used in our holy rituals as well as in temples. However, sandalwood from India is a protected species, and therefore not many fragrance brands use that, Australia has a vast amount of Sandalwood and Santal Austral has organic sandalwood oil from Australia as the main ingredient. This fragrance has a lactonic quality to it which makes this dry wood a little milky. There is a bit of sweetness too. The fragrance is very comforting and is one of my faves.
- Bois d’Ebene – The initial idea behind this fragrance was to create a dark ambery wood fragrance. The main ingredient is Guaiac wood oil Paraguay. It has some juniper berries, guaiac wood, and patchouli. This is dark, a bit smokey and earthy. A lovely fragrance for those who enjoy scents leaning a bit masculine.
- Encens Suave – We burn incense as a part of a holy ritual at home and I was excited to try this one. The initial idea behind this fragrance was a dark incense – addictive and carnal. This is an amber spicy fragrance with coffee, Incense, Vanilla, Benzoin, and Labdanum. It is rich, resinous, and musky incense. Vanilla and coffee blend so well together making it slightly warm and addictive. This is a very unique incense scent I smelt and that’s why I like it so much. However, my husband doesn’t like this on me. He smells incense at home often and doesn’t want me to smell like holy stuff :P.
- Radical Rose – I kept the best for the last :). Many fragrance brands own their farms in Grasse but Aurélien is the only Perfumer to own and produce his own Rose Centifolia. In 2016 Aurélien along with his family founded a Rose Centifolia Organic Farm (Ecocert®). He cultivates thousands of roses on an exceptional terroir, recognized in the intangible cultural heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. Radical Rose has Rose Centifolia Absolute with a bit of saffron and pepper. It has berries oil, a hint of Patchouli, and labdanum. Aurélien explained in his video, the spicy notes of saffron and pepper berries are there to bring out the brightness of the rose and patchouli to emphasize the woodiness. It is very classy, a bit deep (not dark), rich, mysterious, sophisticated, and grown-up (not an old lady) scent. The rose has a weight and body to it. It is slightly sweet and has a honey-like aroma. It is woody, floral, bright, slightly fruity, and spicy, It is a head-turner but not offensive. It smells very modern, powerful, and expensive. It captivates everyone around you and is a compliment-getter!
I wish to visit Matiere Premiere Rose Farm one day in Grasse and meet the master Perfumer Aurélien Guichard because Radical Rose, my darlings, is a masterpiece!
I feel like shouting from the rooftops that I am in LOVE with Matiere Premiere Parfums and I recommend trying this new Niche Fragrance house. You can order blotters to see if any of the fragrances get your attention. I had an impression that blotters do not hold fragrances longer but I have sprayed mine and they last!! It is a good way to test the performance of each fragrance and also test the dry downs or base notes. I personally prefer discovery sets or miniatures which help you experience the top notes and the transition to the dry down.
Full-size bottles can be purchased from Harrods in the UK. Miniatures and Blotters are only available via Matiere Premiere Parfums.
Until next time, Ashh xo
*This post features press samples. Opinions are my own and unbiased.